This started out life as a section of plastic drainage channel, that looks like this: The result of the latest meanderings, once combined with some foamcore and an assortment of parts from the Maelstrom's Edge Terrain Sprue, looks like this: In my continuing quest to turn every interesting thing I encounter into wargaming terrain, I often find myself wandering up and down the plumbing aisle of the local hardware store. As always, we'd love to see what you're working on, so feel free to swing by the Comm Guild Facebook page! You can pick up the models shown in this article from the Maelstrom's Edge webstore here. You can also add extra weathering by drybrushing brown or rusty red over the top, wherever looks like an appropriate place for rust or dirt to gather, or experiment with different coloured washes to create different metal effects. Below is an example with a more dirty effect, achieved by just lightly drybrushing the metal over the brown before washing, as described above. This is also a great way to pick out metal detail on buildings or ruins. Here's the same technique on a different model, this time a slightly converted Epirian Scarecrow. You can also paint over the top with a patchy layer of colour to show worn paint with the metal showing through. I also like to go over weapons and working parts with a coat or two of black ink, to make them stand out a little more. You can highlight with a little silver to pick out raised edges, just to brighten things up a little bit. Once the ink is dry, it's time for final detailing. It's probably close enough for these purposes, but I haven't tried it.) (Agrax Nightshade replaced this in the Citadel range. The below is done with Army Painter Strong Tone, which is more or less identical to the old Citadel Devlan Mud. Now the magic step: Give the model a liberal coat of brown ink. And as with the red, if a little brown tint shows through the coat of metal, that's excellent for our purposes here. For a more lightly weathered look, use a heavier coat of metal while leaving the brown in the creases. For a more rusted, dirty look, just lightly drybrush the metal on. Again, you don't want to completely cover the brown. I've used P3 Pig Iron, which is roughly equivalent to the old Boltgun Metal/Leadbelcher. Next, paint a light coat of a medium metal tone. It will look a little odd to begin with, but it all pulls together at the end. This doesn't need to be perfectly even - If a bit of the red tint shows through, all the better. Over the red, paint a coat of a medium brown colour. Going straight over the grey plastic dulls the red down a little as well. Just a light coat, as it doesn't have to be super-bright. This all starts with a red undercoat - Here I've used Army Painter Pure Red. My guinea pig here is an Epirian Hunter Warmech. This gives a bit of scope for painting terrain and models with a less polished finish, so this week, I thought I'd share an easy little method that I use to paint weathered metal. Equipment has to contend with a huge range of different environments and, particularly once the Maelstrom come close, maintenance schedules can be somewhat less rigorously clung to than they might be on more 'civilised' worlds. Terraforming planets is hard work, particularly on those worlds where conditions are less than favourable to begin with.
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